ABERDEEN     V     SIROKI BRIJEG

THURSDAY JULY 13TH 2017

 

Competition: UEFA Europa League, Qualifying Round, 1st leg

Ticket price: £22

Programme: £3

Attendance: 17, 067

Half time score: 1-0

Full time score: 1-1

Bird species: 79

Mileage: 893

Trip music: The Best of Neil Young - Neil Young; The Take Off And Landing Of Everything - Elbow; OKNOTOK - Radiohead; Pulp Hits - Pulp.

 

THE BIRDS

 

A long day's travelling means an early start to maximise birding time. Throughout the previous week, rare and scarce birds had been turning up between my route from the Midlands to North-east Scotland. As is the norm in spring, the birding scene changes very quickly but there are still some goodies to try and see come the big day.

 

I pick up my mate Tottenham Tim at a Sparrow's fart time of 0500! It is already light and Common Swifts are performing awesome aerobatics overhead, screaming loudly, as we set off north. I arrive at Nosterfield NR, North Yorkshire, at 6.45am. Already this superb reserve is bathed in perfect early morning light, so it is a pleasant walk through fields to the lake where a Sabine's Gull has been lingering for a few days now. I disturb a Hedgehog as we walk along a dewy grass track, which is a good start to the day.

 

A scan of the water and scrapes reveals Redshanks, Little and Common Ringed Plovers a breeding plumaged Dunlin and many Lapwings. A thorough grilling of the small gull flock does not reveal our target bird.

 

A short walk to another, smaller, lake does not prove any more fruitful until Tim declares: "there it is!". Sure enough, this distinctive larid is daintily flapping about at the rear of the lagoon. It draws closer a few times and Tottenham Tim declares it to be the nicest gull he has ever seen.

 

The Sabine's eventually lands on a muddy bank not too far away and I manage superb views through my telescope. Photos aren't brilliant, though, being as I only have a small bridge camera, but they will have to suffice.

Sabine's Gull in flight

 

Sabine's Gull showing diagnostic upperwing pattern

 

We get back to the car park just as the Nosterfield wardens are emptying the moth traps. Now I love moths and many of them have fabulous names but I have no idea what I am looking at. My limited brain only has enough capacity to learn about birds and I am loathe to try and start mastering a whole new swathe of wildlife identifications!

 

Nevertheless, when an expert moth-er is on hand, I will definitely hang around to try and see what has been captured in the light traps overnight. The journey north is delayed for thirty minutes while I wonder at some new creatures!

 

I am shown Elephant and Poplar Hawkmoths, a Drinker, a few Garden Tigers, a Burnished Brass (best said in a Yorkshire accent, I feel) a Silky Wainscot and many more. I finally drag myself away from Nosterfield and its friendly people at 9.00am. What a superb early morning's wildlife watching!

 

 

Elephant Hawkmoth

 

Garden Tiger

 

Poplar Hawkmoth vibrating its wings to warm up, ready for flight

 

 

A blast up the A1 later, I pull up at a village on the Northumberland coast by the name of Boulmer. The target here is an American wading bird called a Long-billed Dowitcher. The extensive sandy beach here is more or less deserted and the view is stunning but my attention must be focused on the massive stretch of seaweed and rocks.

 

The dowitcher has proved a bit hit and miss during the week. It proves to be a big miss this morning!

Try as we might, TT and I fail to locate the brick-red wader amongst the rocks. A few Oystercatchers and Curlews are all we can muster and reluctantly admit defeat in order to leave time to get to Aberdeen in good time.

 

Continuing north along the cobbled A1 - a dismal road which I consider to be a national disgrace - I slog past Edinburgh, onwards through Dundee and into the traffic jams of Aberdeen. My destination is north of the city centre: Murcar Golf Course. The sea off this beautiful golf links course is famous for its seaduck concentrations, which also attracts many-a rarity.

 

TT and I trudge through the dunes to the shore and are confronted by thousands of Common Scoters and Eiders spread out for miles across the sea. Fortunately, there's a guy already there and tells us he's seen the Mega-rare White-winged Scoter (only the 2nd for Britain!), the iconic King Eider and the scarce Surf Scoter. TT is especially excited because they are all new birds for him: 'lifers'!

 

Between the three of us, we soon pick out Surfie and the White-winged Scoter from the massive throng of swirling ducks on the water, though it is far from easy. Neither are they within photographable distance. The King Eider (affectionately known as 'Elvis' - geddit?) cannot be relocated amongst the thousands of Common Eiders: unfinished business for tomorrow!

 

For now, time is pressing on. I am normally at a game early but have pushed the time envelope to its limit to try and get TT a view of 'Elvis' but it is time to stop birding and do some groundhopping!

 

 

THE FOOTBALL

 

There's no time to check in at our digs, so I drive straight to the match. I follow lots of cars into Aberdeen and the Richard Donald stand of Pittodrie hoves into view under the shadow of several high rise flat complexes.

 

Aberdeen have been threatening to move to a new ground for several years and Pittodrie has been on my radar for even longer than that. Tonight, I finally get to tick it off. Despite the stand seeming to be quite away off, I notice cars are already beginning to park along the esplanade. They obviously know something I don't, so I join them and follow them on foot as they abandon their vehicles.

 

It is a strange scene as thousands of people stream across a golf course to get to the stadium while people are trying to play. It is definitely a first for me, too!

 

 

The Richard Donald stand from the golf course

 

The impressive Richard Donald stand

 

As I near, I can see long queues snaking around the ground. As I get nearer, it is obvious people are queuing for tickets and to get in the club shop. Fortunately, I have printed off my ticket at home, so there's no sweat. I do, however, have trouble finding a programme but eventually succeed. Phew!

 

The barcode on the ticket triggers the turnstile into action for a change: I hate those things! Following a trend, there are long queues for food and drink inside the stadium. In short, it is a stark reminder of why I get to football grounds (and music gigs) extremely early. By doing so, I get to park in the prime spots, sail through the club shop and turnstiles and am usually the first to scoff food from refreshment kiosks. It is good to be reminded of such things now and again!

 

It is very muggy inside the ground and by the time I take my seat in one corner of the Main Stand I am sweating like a 70s TV celebrity when the words 'Yew' and 'Tree' are mentioned in the same sentence.

 

Tonight's game is a Europa League Qualifying Round, 1st leg fixture. Just over 17,000 fans are in the ground, no doubt hoping The Dons will do rather better than Glasgow Rangers fared on Tuesday night! Amongst those 17,067 Scottish partisans are 14 away supporters. How do I know there are 14? Because I count them several times in case another one sneaks in to try and fool me!

 

14 Siroki Brijeg fans: "Give us an 'S'; Give us a..."

 

 

The away fans are supporting Siroki Brijeg, a little known side from Bosnia and Herzegovina. I have found Eastern European teams to show a high level of footballing technique and they are usually good to watch. The smaller clubs don't seem to travel well, though, and Aberdeen must be confident of progressing over two legs. Just to make sure, they deploy a very scary-looking mascot to frighten the living bejeezus out of their visitors tonight.

 

 

WTF is that?!

 



The game gets underway to a roar from the home fans. The Dons nearly get off to a flying start when Adam Rooney finds space in the box but volleys his shot over the bar. Siroki look dangerous on the break and home defenders have to be concentrating fully. 

 

After one such Bosnian break, Joe Lewis catches the ball and immediately launches an accurate arrow-like pass upfield. Ryan Christie controls it well, rounds his defender and curls in a beautiful left-footed shot from the edge of the box. Surely this will be the foundation for an easy home victory and a relaxed journey to The Balkans next week?

 

Aberdeen create several more chances but cannot grab a second goal. Siroki make regular forays into their hosts' box but never look convincing. This tie is definitely not over, though!

 

After my rushed entry to the stadium, I now have time to survey my surroundings a bit better. Pittodrie is an all-seater stadium and looks pretty impressive from where I am sitting. It would look even more imposing if I could see the upper tier of the towering Richard Donald stand behind the goal to my left but I can only see the lower level.

 

 

The South Stand

 

 

 

My view from the corner of the Main Stand. Better than it looks from this photo!

 

 

 

Back cover of tonight's programme

 

Front cover of tonight's programme

 

 

The programme is a typical glossy League-type issue with interviews from players and the manager - the usual platitudes and meaningless remarks. That is until the second half, which is packed with fascinating articles detailing Aberdeen's past seasons in Europe: superb stuff. The cover is also amazing; it is a wonderful montage of previous programme covers from Aberdeen's European appearances; I could study it for hours and probably will when I get home.

 

My admiration of the programme cover is interrupted by the second half of the game! Ryan Christie is having a fine evening. He looks head and shoulders above anyone else on the pitch, as far as ability is concerned, and I will follow his progress this season with interest.

 

Aberdeen pay the price for missing too many chances and Brijeg get themselves back into the tie after 68 minutes when Stipo Markovic lashes in an unstoppable shot after sustained pressure from the Bosnians.

 

The match becomes very open, with neither side looking like they can defend their box if their lives depend on it. By my reckoning, Brijeg have the better chances to sneak it but it ends in a fair draw. Aberdeen fans become desperate and their shouts for a penalty become more and more ludicrous as the final whistle draws inexorably closer. Siroki players don't cement their way into Scottish hearts thanks to their constant play-acting.

 

The Dons will be bitterly disappointed by this result but as every pundit loves telling us in a two-leg tie: "It is only half time". At the final whistle, fans stream out of the ground. Suddenly, a snowstorm of Herring Gulls descend out of nowhere. They have learned that humans leave copious amounts of food on the terraces after a match and swoop in to take full advantage!

 

 

All those white dots are Herring Gulls scavenging on discarded Scotch Pies! Many more are circling...

 

 

On the way back to the car, I desperately try and keep my programme dry shoving it down my shirt to protect it from the pouring rain. In a schoolboy error, I have forgotten my programme bag! I somehow mange to keep it in perfect nick and have a quick read after I flop into bed at about 11.00pm: just 20 hours since I got up!

 

 

MORE BIRDS

 

I feel remarkably refreshed when  I rise from my pit at 0600 hours the following morning: Friday July 14th.  I feel even better once I have finished my enormous full Scottish breakfast in the hotel. It's time to do some more scoter-bashing before heading south.

 

Murcar golf course is about a minute's drive away from the hotel. It is bright and breezy as Tottenham Tim and I retrace our steps across the deserted fairways to the dunes. The sun is right in our eyes and finding Elvis is going to be a bit of a task.

 

Three hours later, we have scrutinised every Eider for The King. There are bloody thousands of birds; Eiders as far as the eye can see. But no Kingie. I eventually call time on a disappointed TT. We have a deadline to get back to Northumberland and we are pushing that deadline being as we have Friday traffic around Dundee and Edinburgh plus the atrocious single lane A1 to contend with (did I tell you I think that road is a national disgrace?!).

 

As it happens, we time it perfectly to get to Amble for a leg stretch and then to catch our boat out to Coquet Island at 5.00pm but not before taking a few shots of the Common Eiders loafing about just below the dock wall: gorgeous!

 

 

Black-headed Gull waiting for some chips on Amble dock. No chance!

 

Drake Common Eider complete with Eider down in its beak!

 

 

 

Captain Pugwash moment: "Ahoy mihearties!"

 

 

Coquet Island is famous for its seabird colony, including Puffins, Kittiwakes, and several species of terns, most notably the endangered and declining  Roseate Tern.

 

Thankfully, it is a super-calm evening as we sail serenely out of the harbour on Puffin Cruises' boat. Storm clouds are brewing, though, and the passengers will be lucky to stay dry on this hour cruise. As we round the jetty, conditions become bit 'lumpier' but nothing too stomach-churning.

 

The first birds we encounter are Sandwich Terns flying back and forth with fish for their chicks. Many Puffins are zipping past, another iconic British species that is declining in number rapidly. Grey Seals come to inspect us as we bob about waiting for the tide to come in, so we can get closer to the island's shoreline.

 

Grey Seal taking a peek at the boat

 

 

As we get closer, we can make out more birds. Kittiwakes make their onomatopoeic call, the seals start 'singing' - a wonderfully evocative sound of wild places - and the Puffins keep puffing along. I keep one eye on the dark clouds building above us!

 

 

Rain clouds over Coquet Island

 

 

We manoeuvre ourselves to the east of the island and are engulfed by  terns. The rocks are covered with adult birds and many recently fledged chicks. Sandwich, Common and a few Arctic Terns all show really well but the prize here are the Roseates: the only British colony (for birding purposes, Ireland doesn't officially count as British!).

 

The RSPB provides nest tunnels for the terns on Coquet and this has been remarkably successful in helping Roseate Terns raise their families. There are only about 100 pairs in the whole of Britain, 99.9% of them being on Coquet.

 

Not surprisingly, it isn't long before I am showing TT his first ever Roseate: a beautiful, pristine species with a  pinky flush to its chest. A real looker! I manage to get a few terrible record shots from the boat. People are not allowed to land on the island to avoid disturbing the birds during nesting, so close-ups are not possible.

 

Arguing Common Terns

 

A busy seabird island

 

One good tern deserves another

 

Roseate Terns and Atlantic Puffins

 

After a good look at the vibrant nesting colony, we head back to solid land and manage to stay dry too: the rain thankfully holds off to round off a highly enjoyable trip. I am not done yet, though. Oh no! I show TT to one of my favourite chippies in the world - you can tell it's a 'guddun by the fact there is a long queue out of the door to get in - and he treats us to a stomach-busting fish supper before driving south.

 

I missed some species; I saw some species; I ticked off an excellent outpost ground. I'm now about half way through completing the Scottish League, so I have plenty more trips north of the border to look forward to. And I do love Scotland...